The Montrose is a delightfully intimate restaurant located on Southborough Common adjacent to the village Cricket Green, indeed as we arrived on this warm June Saturday evening a game was still in progress. We were given a window table, but it was a pity that the frosting prevented us from watching the occasional loose ball being chased across the road, or the flash of the nearby speed camera.
The interior decoration is done in tasteful shades of white, grey and black, and natural wood. This modern look fitted well with the old building. At the centre of the restaurant is a steep, imposing staircase, and one quickly becomes aware that the waiting staff must be among the fittest in Tunbridge Wells, since the kitchens are on the first floor.
The menu is short, but carries a good range of dishes, which should suit most tastes. It was unusual to be offered a separate vegetarian menu with a choice of two starters and three mains, all of which looked tempting to this meat eater.

Whilst waiting for our starters, a small freebie portion of pea and mint soup arrived, which was well made and very refreshing.
I chose the duck starter, which was served as thick slices of rolled duck breast with hoi sin sauce, warmed dates and salad garnish. P chose the poached wild salmon finished with a champagne and chive creamy sauce which perfectly complimented the thin slices of fish, which she described as very delicate and tasty.
The Montrose makes a big thing of its wine list, or Wine Menu as they call it. Although the food menu is pleasingly short, the wine list runs to 13 pages of predominantly French wines. There is a good range of wines from a £14.50 house white, up to a Premier Cru 1981 Mouton Rothschild at just under £200. Unfortunately, with one of us driving and a bottle too much for the other, I was a bit stuck as the selection of half bottles was rather scant. Several more wines are sold by the glass, which does not suit me - too much catching a waiter’s eye for a re-fill which usually arrives at the wrong moment. I do wonder why more places do not offer carafes, with enough for a glass and a bit, or even 2/3rd of a bottle. I guess there is no demand. At the waitress’ suggestion, I plumped for a half of Chateau Plaisance. Suggesting a red to accompany the fish might in many eyes be seen as odd, but one that would go well with the duck, and in any case I’ve never been one to follow convention.
Although not a vegetarian, P went for the Aubergine, Tomato, Mozzarella and Parmesan Gateau for her main course. Spoilt for choice, I could have happily chosen anything on the menu and I went for the special of the day, Black Bream served with spinach, we shared side orders of carrots and sauté potatoes. P’s choice was excellent, though a slightly larger portion would not have gone amiss. My whole bream (minus head!) was a nicely cooked piece of fish and the stuffing of herbs added to the flavour.

Initially, the wine proved to be a disappointment. It lacked the characteristics promised and was well past its best and a slight brown tinge indicated oxidisation. Rather than kick up a fuss, and perhaps show my ignorance (I’m no wine buff), I asked the maitre d’ for his opinion. The bottle was quickly replaced with apologies and one whose contents fully met expectations and sank without trace.

And so to desserts; a cheese selection is available, one can choose not only the type, but also the number of pieces, served from a special cheese menu.

P chose a faultless plate of dark chocolate: fondant, chocolate sorbet, and chocolate mouse and strawberries, which made me quite envious for a few seconds, until my own freshly cooked tarte tatin arrived, which was really very good indeed.

A couple of espressos and petit fours rounded off an excellent meal. Service throughout was professional, whilst being informal and friendly.
With a bottle of fizzy water, a beer and a large orange juice for the driver, the bill came to 10p over a hundred pounds, plus service. Not the cheapest place in town, but for the high standard of cooking, good service and pleasant surroundings – worth it. An “Approved” from Top Cat.