From the street, it looks as if Mamounia is just an elegant, dimly lit bar, and there is little indication of the restaurant downstairs. It was raining, so we had coats and umbrellas, and as the person showing us down to our table did not take our costs, we assumed there would be somewhere to hang them downstairs. But no – we had to sling them over the backs of our chairs. The restaurant is also dimly lit, so the menu’s small writing on coloured paper was a challenge as I’d forgotten my specs. The menu is divided into Lebanese, Moroccan and Fusion and there’s a wide choice. We started with a shared plate of mixed Lebanese meze, all fine and freshly cooked, but to be honest, no better than one would get in any Green Lanes Turkish restaurant, or – say - Gallipoli in Upper Street. And of course, twice the price. But this is Mayfair, with crisp napery, swift service and a floorshow, so it’s certainly value for money.

In the dark days before Britain discovered food, you would head into the countryside for a meal with all the enthusiasm of a Roman centurion venturing into Boudicca’s local for an afterwork pint. Dining options seemed limited to a clutch of dowdy restaurants and woodbine-scented pubs, all seemingly locked in an eternal battle to see who could get the most breadcrumbs onto the menu. It was not a good time to be a scampi.

We do not have a Spy review of this establishment yet.

We do not have a Spy review of this establishment yet.